Evia | The Breakwater of Greece
- Maria Savidis Markatos
- 5 days ago
- 8 min read
It’s hard to say “been there, done that” with respect to Greece. This a country that was once composed of unique city-states and counts 6000 islands. I have been to Greece many times, spent entire summers there and each time it is a completely different experience. My husband and I try to go to a few new places on every trip.
This posting is about two separate trips to Evia, one in the Spring of 2023 and the other in the fall of 2024. On the first occasion, we flew into Athens a few days after Easter and were surprised at how green everything was.
Our luggage was on the carousel by the time we exited the plane (that in itself was new) and took a cab to Rafina. There we waited in a taverna enjoying some fried gavros (a small, slender fish commonly used for anchovies) and fava until the ferry boat to Evia arrived. Even though it was raining while we waited in the port, the one hour boat ride was smooth and pleasant. Upon our arrival at Λιμάνι Μαρμαρίουi (the port of Marmari) we were greeted by my cousin Sofia. So yes, I have cousins in Evia also.
It was wonderful spending time with family on this beautiful island savoring the fresh air of the sea, the fragrant flowers growing all around, and the charm of the bountiful chamomile daisies and bright red poppies.
For Greeks, Easter is the biggest holiday, much more important and significant than Christmas.
To commemorate the resurrection of Christ, an elaborately carved wooden kouvouklion (sometimes mis-referred to as the Epitaphios) is decorated with flowers. This structure serves as an allusion to the tomb, paradise, and renewal, which remains in place until the Ascension (40 days after Easter).
My cousins prepared a wonderful Easter feast for us which we enjoyed the Sunday after Easter.
The square in Karystos was illuminated with festive Easter lights.
Like so many of the Greek islands, there are several ports, each with a variety of really good restaurants. Here we enjoyed probably the best artichokes and potatoes at Moutsis Cavo d’oro. We shared an amazing selection of homestyle casserole dishes such as, soupies(cuttlefish) with spinach, İmam bayıldı, gigantes, bajaria (beet root), and horta (greens). Some type of beef dish was also served which delighted everyone. I am relying on hearsay and can not personally attest to that as I don’t eat meat,
The beautiful beaches, which like so much of the island are covered in chamomile. There are mountains, hiking trails, fabulous views, an antiquity museum, Roman ruins, and more.
There is a castle on top of one of the hills.
Evia island is so easy to get to from Athens and a great escape from the chaotic nature of a big city. It is no wonder that Evia provides a second home to many Athenians.
In the spring, after the rains of winter, everything is lush and green and flowers abound, even in the beach areas.
Art is important to the Greeks and can be seen in unexpected places.
Coved beaches, perfect for swimming, abound.
Street art (like everything else) was invented by the Greeks. Initially it was political but has undergone many transformations and is often humorous or just decorative.
Sometimes the water is like glass
So many shades of green, so many flowers. The magenta colored succulent below caught my attention.
Going for a swim is a truly wonderful experience in the summer and the fall, not so much in April as the water, at least for me, is too cold.
If you are ever wondering where all the lamb the Greeks eat comes from..
The spring and the fall are great times to see birds. One common and really cute example is the crested lark
In the center of Karystos town is Volk Real Street food Creperie where you will find a beautiful mural and tasty desserts
Getting off Evia Island and taking a plane the same day can be interesting and a bit of an adventure. With some creativity and good fortune, it can be done. Ferries usually provide an easier way to get to other islands. Unfortunately, the ferry boat schedules are not always available online or can be a challenge to find when they are. Sometimes one might find the schedules to certain destinations quite limited, especially if, like me, you prefer to travel slightly before, or after, the high season. This makes planning from the States rather difficult. In some cases, the assistance of a local travel agent is invaluable.
Greece is a seismic area and quakes are common. Most, like the one I experienced during my spring trip, caused a momentary jolt with little to no property damage. The 4.5 we felt on April 22, 2023 was actually an aftershock from an earthquake on Nov 29, 2022
Where we stayed:
The Galaxy Hotel
2 ** not because it isn’t nice but because it is small and doesn’t have resort type amenities. It was clean, comfortable and had a decent breakfast. The room was adequately spacious with plenty of light. No complaints. I plan on staying there again
Our plan was to leave Evia on a Sunday morning and fly to Naxos in the evening. Alas, there were no morning boats leaving from Marmara (the closest port) on Sunday mornings in April. My cousins, my husband, me and all our luggage headed out by car to Nea Stira on the other side of the island. There we car-ferried to Agia Marina and drove again to the airport.
Even though Easter is a popular time for the Greeks to visit the islands and is the beginning of the shoulder season, there was no problem finding a seat on the ferry from Evia to Athens.
A better idea after Evia would be to spend a few days in Andros. A ferry boat from the town where we were staying in Evia (Karystos), goes directly to Andros. (or at least it did in April of 2023). From there, another ferry boat runs to Naxos. Maybe in 2024.
September 2024 - our Fall trip and return to Evia
One of the positive things about waiting so long to post my blog updates is to record how things changed. The fall trip to Greece also included a stop in Karystos. I had hoped to take a ferry boat from Karystos to Andos (as mentioned above) but SAS ferries ceased operations recently. Even the best laid plans can go awry. It turns out, this particular ferry dropped a car into the water when it was leaving port a few weeks before our arrival. The captain of that boat got the axe and the company was not able to replace him. No captain, no ferry. Since no other ferry boat operator came into play, I had to take a boat back to Rafina to my next destination, Paros.
We explored renting a car in Athens, as the car rentals there are very inexpensive, and traveling the mainland becomes much simpler that way. However, there can be a $50 rental surcharge for each time you put your car on a ferry and the ferry boat companies charge $50 and up for the car. So, at an additional $100 per leg, it is only worth it if you plan to spend at least a week on a given island. To make things more complicated, most car rental companies prohibit car-ferrying at all. Choose wisely.
We finally decided to take a bus from Athens Airport, which was air-conditioned, comfortable, cheap and a fast ride to Rafina. We had a few hours before our ferry would depart so we stopped again at one of the many wonderful fish taverns for lunch. We savored the delectable Tsipoura, a delicious white fish that goes by the names Porgy, Dorado, and Sea Bream, depending on your location. We also enjoyed fava, and horta as sides and the obligatory frappe.
My cousin Sofia once again picked us up from port Marmari and took us to her summer home in Karystos. Sadly, her husband had passed since our visit earlier in the spring. He was a charming host, a popular man about town and devoted husband. He will be missed by all whose path he crossed.
When you go to Karystos, you will notice trees of various ages that create a wonderful canopy. These are the μουριά, or mulberry trees of Evia. When the trees are young, weights are hung from the branches so that they grow out instead of up, creating wonderful shade.
Despite the time of year, there is always a wonderful fragrance in the air. In the spring the subtle scent of chamomile will reach your olfactory senses. In the late summer and early fall night bloomers offer a jasmin-like almost intoxicating aroma into the air.
Trees with Neradzi Fruits (Bitter Oranges) line the streets.
Late September is a great time to visit Evia. It is warm enough for swimming and the beaches are not crowded.
While the lounge chairs may be put away on some beaches, the umbrellas are often cemented in and offer shade from the island’s strong sun.
My cousin took a dip and once I put my camera down, I followed her into the luxurious Aegean sea.
Remembering the wonderful meal and craving for soupies (cuttlefish), we had no choice but to revisit Moutsis Kyriakos|Cavo d'oro Traditional Tavern.
Before ordering you are invited inside where you can see and smell the restaurant’s fresh home-style offerings.
I love this restaurant. It is one of my absolute favorites with authentic Greek food cooked to perfection. Again,the mains were accompanied by soupies, horta, gigantes and fava. Interestingly, a green salad came with tomatoes. Unlike in the US, that is very uncommon combination in Greece.
I wish this restaurant existed where I live but unfortunately the fresh ingredients can not be found in NJ. Most people eat outside as the weather is generally pleasant. If by some chance it happens to rain, there is plenty of indoor seating.
Moutsis Kyriakos|Cavo d'oro Traditional tavern
Head: Moutsis Kyriakos
Address: Sachtouri (cross road)
34001 Karystos Evia
Tel: 2224022326
Beet Roots, Horta, Soupies (Common Cuttlefish Stew), Imam Bayildi (Eggplant), Gigantes (giant beans), and a lamb dish
Later, an evening walk to the harbor…
If you enjoy hiking, you will love Evia. There is a hiking tour group that uses the Galaxy hotel as their base and arranges hikes to the island's gorges. While the hiking trails in Greece are generally marked, the country is mountainous and it can get quite hot. It is advisable to take advantage of the various organized hikes.
Although this is my second trip to Evia, I have only been to the southern half or the island. To properly see this island several weeks are necessary. I am looking forward to exploring the north and participating in some guided hikes on my next trip to Evia in the spring of 2026.
Join us in Naxos where I will share images and adventures from the spring and from the fall. April and October in Naxos.
To see more photographs of Evia please go to: https://mariamarkatos.smugmug.com/Greece/Central-Greece/Euboea-Evia
If you missed my previous blog segment: Vietnam - Timeless Charmhttps://www.photographybymariasavidis-blog.com/post/vietnam-timeless-charm
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